Trip to Japan and Hong Kong

Joanne and I went to Japan and China again! The itinerary is: three nights in Tokyo, three in Hong Kong, about a week in Zhuhai (with a one night trip to Guangzhou in between), and a night in Macao.

1 Sunday 2024-09-08: Arrival in Japan

We took Japan Airlines flight JL1 from SFO to HND.

Airplane food.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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Airplane food.

Airplane food.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Airplane food.

We stayed at All Day Place Shibuya, a hotel catered to Westerners.

Our room at All Day Place Shibuya.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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ISO 500
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darktable 4.8.1
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Our room at All Day Place Shibuya.

View in Shibuya.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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View in Shibuya.

1.1 Ikebukuro

My friend Andrew and his wife made a special one hour trip to grab dinner with us in Ikebukuro. We had pork skewers (yakiton), along with two of my other friends.

View in Ikebukuro.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/15 s
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ISO 800
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darktable 4.8.1
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View in Ikebukuro.

Pork skewers.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/4.0
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1/27 s
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ISO 1250
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darktable 4.8.1
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Pork skewers.

I then grabbed Joanne and one of my friends to see Uonami Fish Bar in Toshima city. Apparently, this shop is a meme photo spot on Reddit and other social media sites. Little did I know, a festival was going on with a huge amount of people! Also, we had trouble navigating Ikebukuro station (we didn’t have cellular data since I left my phone with free data roaming at home in California), so going to the fish bar was a terrible ordeal that took an hour for what we thought was a mere one mile trip. We were exhausted from the flight, and extremely grumpy as a result!

Uonami fish bar.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/4.0
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ISO 400
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darktable 4.8.1
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Uonami fish bar.

2 Monday 2024-09-09: Akihabara and tempura

2.1 Breakfast in Shibuya: Shinpachi Shokudo

We went to Shinpachi Shokudo for a quick and cheap breakfast. I got a grilled mackerel teishoku. It was quite affordable:

Grilled mackerel teishoku.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/27 s
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ISO 1250
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darktable 4.8.1
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Grilled mackerel teishoku.

2.2 Lunch in Akihabara: Gyukatsu

Four of my friends and I went to Akihabara for sightseeing.

A small camera bazaar on the pavement.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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ISO 100
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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A small camera bazaar on the pavement.

For lunch, we had Gyu Katsu Motomura. It’s lightly fried steak which you then grill to your desired doneness. It was very delicious — the beef was very tender and marbled, and the batter was very light.

Gyukatsu set.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/42 s
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ISO 1250
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darktable 4.8.1
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Gyukatsu set.

You grill the meat to your desired level.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/4.0
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1/42 s
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ISO 500
Software
darktable 4.8.1
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You grill the meat to your desired level.

Sofmap, known for its cool escalator tubes.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/180 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Sofmap, known for its cool escalator tubes.

Obligatory street view of Akihabara.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/480 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Obligatory street view of Akihabara.

We got ice cream at Azabu Sabo and then went shopping for camera lenses! We went to Yodobashi Camera as well as Lemon and 2nd Base by Sanpou Camera. However, I didn’t find any good lenses to buy.

2.3 Back to Shibuya

Took the Ginza line back to Shibuya.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/42 s
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ISO 2500
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darktable 4.8.1
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Took the Ginza line back to Shibuya.

Shibuya Crossing seen from the metro station.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/1.7
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1/550 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Shibuya Crossing seen from the metro station.

I spotted a really cool Porsche 930 slantnose! There are lots of cool cars in Shibuya. I am not sure if this was an original slantnose — only 948 units were built in total. Slantnoses were each built by hand by remodeling the front fenders and cost up to 60% more than the standard price at the time.

Porsche 930 slantnose.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/400 s
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ISO 800
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darktable 4.8.1
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Porsche 930 slantnose.

Porsche 930 slantnose.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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ISO 800
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darktable 4.8.1
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Porsche 930 slantnose.

I took a shower and rested a bit at our hotel.

Our hotel.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/180 s
ISO
ISO 100
Software
darktable 4.8.1
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Our hotel.

2.4 Dinner in Roppongi: Tempura Yokota

For dinner, we booked Tempura Yokota. It’s situated right next to the similarly-named Ten Yokota, which is Michelin starred. Tempura Yokota is supposed to be the (slightly) inferior of the two. It was run by the dad of the guy who runs Ten Yokota, until 2021, when he was replaced by another one of his apprentices. Just like Ten Yokota, this apprentice is also apparently much better than his master.

To save space, I’ll just post eight out of the 21 courses.

Shrimp.
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125
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darktable 4.8.1
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Shrimp.

Green pepper.
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Green pepper.

Ayu.
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Ayu.

Sashimi course.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Sashimi course.

Cooked fish, and a snail.
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125
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ISO 3200
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darktable 4.8.1
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Cooked fish, and a snail.

Maitake mushroom.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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125
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darktable 4.8.1
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Maitake mushroom.

Scallop with uni on top.
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125
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darktable 4.8.1
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Scallop with uni on top.

Shrimp with caviar.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Shrimp with caviar.

Conger eel.
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Conger eel.

2.5 Post-dinner in Shibuya

We went to SOAK at the top floor of Sequence Hotel on Miyashita Park.

Some kind of cocktail. In the background is my friend Anting.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Some kind of cocktail. In the background is my friend Anting.

View of the Shibuya Sky Tree and Miyashita Park.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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View of the Shibuya Sky Tree and Miyashita Park.

View of Tower Records in Shibuya.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/1.7
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ISO 3200
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darktable 4.8.1
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View of Tower Records in Shibuya.

3 Tuesday 2024-09-10: Shibuya, Shinjuku

For breakfast, we had western food in our hotel, that is, Good cheese good pizza. It’s actually really good.

Tartine with smoked salmon and avocado.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/50 s
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ISO 400
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darktable 4.8.1
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Tartine with smoked salmon and avocado.

Then we went to Google Japan for second breakfast!

Google Japan Shibuya building.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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Google Japan Shibuya building.

View south.
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darktable 4.8.1
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View south.

View east.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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View east.

3.1 Lunch: Unaju

We went to Unagi Toku. It’s not as good as Unatetsu which we went to in December 2023, but still vastly better than almost any unagi in the US. The unagi was very charred and smoky which is great.

Unagi Toku.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.0
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darktable 4.8.1
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Unagi Toku.

In the afternoon, I went to Map Camera Shinjuku to hunt for lenses. However, I didn’t find any that I wanted. I was looking for a fast 50mm or 35mm lens that would work reasonably on both my line scan camera and my Fuji GFX camera, but the Voigtländer Nokton 50mm f/1.2 VM is discontinued and impossible to find, and the 50mm f/1.5 is out of stock until November. Oh well.

Anyway, I met up with an online friend, Jake, and we chatted about cameras and then went to take photos of trains!

Voigtländer lenses are cheap at Map Camera in Japan.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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f/NaN
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ISO 2500
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darktable 4.8.1
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Voigtländer lenses are cheap at Map Camera in Japan.

3.2 Dinner: Izakaya

We went to Shirubee for dinner. It’s a very local Japanese restaurant where everyone there was Japanese, and the menu was handwritten in Japanese. Fortunately, we can read a bit of Japanese. We ordered a ton of food including the grilled mackerel and pacific saury.

Grilled mackerel. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 454.
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Nothing A015
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MediaTek Camera Application
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Grilled mackerel. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 454.

Grilled pacific saury (sanma no shioyaki). It was circled in a big red circle on the handwritten menu so we knew it had to be good. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 428.
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Nothing A015
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f/1.8
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1/100 s
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ISO 428
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MediaTek Camera Application
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Grilled pacific saury (sanma no shioyaki). It was circled in a big red circle on the handwritten menu so we knew it had to be good. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 428.

Sashimi moriawase. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 418.
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MediaTek Camera Application
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Sashimi moriawase. Nothing A015 with , 4.7 mm, F1.9, 1/100 s, ISO 418.

4 Wednesday 2024-09-11: Flight to Hong Kong

4.1 Breakfast in Shibuya: Ichiran

Upon waking up, we had Ichiran Ramen for breakfast.

Ichiran ramen.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/2.8
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ISO 640
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darktable 4.8.1
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Ichiran ramen.

Then we went to Blue Bottle Coffee for second breakfast! They had a cheesecake brulee which is a Shibuya-exclusive item.

Blue Bottle Cheesecake.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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ISO 160
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darktable 4.8.1
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Blue Bottle Cheesecake.

4.2 Morning stroll in Yoyogi Park

Performance auditorium thing.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Performance auditorium thing.

Yamanote Line.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Yamanote Line.

4.3 Lunch: Ochazuke

We went to Komeraku which was right next to Unagi Toku from yesterday’s lunch. We were too lazy to search for food based on reviews and despite its rather average rating on Tabelog (which we looked up after the fact), it was still delicious.

Ochazuke
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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Ochazuke

Then we took the train to the airport!

Keisei Skyliner to the airport.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Keisei Skyliner to the airport.

4.4 Second lunch: Sushi

I got some takeout sushi at the airport just before boarding the flight to Hong Kong.

Takeout sushi.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Takeout sushi.

4.5 Dinner: Barbecue rice

At the Hong Kong airport we got a late dinner. I got roast goose and soya sauce chicken on rice.

Roast goose and soya sauce chicken on rice.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Roast goose and soya sauce chicken on rice.

5 Thursday 2024-09-12: Palace Museum

5.1 Breakfast: Cha chaan teng

First we took the tram to get breakfast.

View from the tram.
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darktable 4.8.1
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View from the tram.

A random taxi.
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A random taxi.

We got breakfast at the Milk Cafe.

Milk cafe.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Milk cafe.

Luncheon meat and egg sandwich.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Luncheon meat and egg sandwich.

5.2 Extreme lens shopping

After breakfast, we went to Sim City in Mong Kok to hunt for camera lenses. This was a terrible mistake since most shops only open at noon! However, I did manage to find a Voigtländer Ultron 35mm f/1.7 which works surprisingly well on the Fuji GFX camera. It cost me HKD 3500. This lens would be very useful for taking line scan photos of trams.

Shelf full of Voigtländer lenses.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Shelf full of Voigtländer lenses.

The lens I bought, mounted on the line scan camera.
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The lens I bought, mounted on the line scan camera.

5.3 Lunch: Rùn

For lunch we went to the Rùn restaurant with two Michelin stars.

Har gow.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Har gow.

Char siu.
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Char siu.

Fried balls.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Fried balls.

Most delicious fried rice we have ever had.
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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1/60 s
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darktable 4.8.1
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Most delicious fried rice we have ever had.

Guava dessert.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/4.0
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1/42 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Guava dessert.

Overall, it was extremely delicious and highly recommended. The service was also outstanding.

5.4 Palace Museum

After lunch, we took a ferry to Kowloon.

Watching the ferry depart as we just missed it upon arriving at the ferry terminal.
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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darktable 4.8.1
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Watching the ferry depart as we just missed it upon arriving at the ferry terminal.

A cool ship seen from the ferry.
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/750 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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A cool ship seen from the ferry.

We went to the Hong Kong Palace Museum, which was recently built in 2022. It’s very spacious and the exhibits are great. The architecture of the museum is also quite nice. Like many emperors of the late Qing Dynasty, I enjoyed looking at the very elaborate clocks.

The Hong Kong Palace Museum.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/500 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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The Hong Kong Palace Museum.

A cool clock.
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A cool clock.

Another cool clock.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Another cool clock.

Breakwater.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Breakwater.

5.5 Dinner: Wonton noodle

For dinner we took the bus to Shek Kee Wan Ton. The owner looks very mean but is actually very nice once you start talking to her. The restaurant is very old school and has many photos of celebrities on the wall.

Interior of the restaurant.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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ISO 125
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darktable 4.8.1
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Interior of the restaurant.

Combination soup.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Combination soup.

Shek Kee Wan Ton on the right.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/4.0
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ISO 250
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darktable 4.8.1
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Shek Kee Wan Ton on the right.

After wontons we went back to the hotel.

Chungking Mansions.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Chungking Mansions.

A stairwell in Tin Hau station.
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darktable 4.8.1
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A stairwell in Tin Hau station.

Extreme bamboo scaffolding on the Pak Lee Mansion!
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f/5.6
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ISO 200
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darktable 4.8.1
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Extreme bamboo scaffolding on the Pak Lee Mansion!

6 Friday 2024-09-13: Kennedy Town and the Peak

6.1 Breakfast: Porridge

For breakfast we went to Chung Kee Congee Shop. Whereas Joanne got the porridge, I got the cheong fun. It was decent but not too amazing compared to the thin, wrinkly ones we later got in Zhuhai. I guess they are more known for their porridge.

Cheong fun.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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1/27 s
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ISO 200
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darktable 4.8.1
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Cheong fun.

6.2 Kennedy Town

In Kennedy Town, there is a well known meme photo spot at a basketball court. You’re supposed to take a photo through a hole that someone dug in a chain link fence. So we went there — here’s the resulting photo.

View of Kennedy Town from a basketball court.
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darktable 4.8.1
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View of Kennedy Town from a basketball court.

I accidentally messed it up since I had leaves in the frame on the right side. If you time it right, you can see a large variety of modes of transportation, including ships, trams, buses, cars, and so on.

Some high rise buildings.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Some high rise buildings.

Stonecutter's bridge.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Stonecutter’s bridge.

Then we got coffee with a whippet!!! The whippet is a four month old female puppy belonging to a guy who is trying to set up an ecommerce business. The puppy was imported from Australia and is very cute. She can run very fast!

Whippet.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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Whippet.

Whippet.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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f/NaN
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ISO 250
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darktable 4.8.1
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Whippet.

6.3 Lunch: Famous Hong Kong food

We went to Sheung Hei for some classic Hong Kong dishes.

Roast pork and roast goose leg rice.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Roast pork and roast goose leg rice.

Pork patty claypot rice.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Pork patty claypot rice.

6.4 Monster Building

In the afternoon it was too hot so Joanne stayed in the hotel while I went exploring.

A pink tram.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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darktable 4.8.1
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A pink tram.

My friend spaqin took me to see the Yick Cheong building, affectionately nicknamed the Monster Building. He used to live there! It has two atria, the first one which is more popular since it is colourful and enclosed by another building, and the second one which is a bit more drab. But I actually prefer the second one.

Monster building atrium 1.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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darktable 4.8.1
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Monster building atrium 1.

Monster building atrium 2.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Monster building atrium 2.

Fire Services Headquarter Building.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/60 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Fire Services Headquarter Building.

Kut Cheong Mansion.
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darktable 4.8.1
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Kut Cheong Mansion.

North Point Mansion.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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North Point Mansion.

6.5 Line scan photos of trams

After the Monster Building, I spent some time taking line scan photos of trams.

Tram.
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Tram.

Tram.
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Tram.

Tram.
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Tram.

Tram.
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Tram.

6.6 The Peak

At night we ascended the Victoria Peak.

Murray Building.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/5.6
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1/200 s
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ISO 100
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darktable 4.8.1
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Murray Building.

View from the Peak.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/4.0
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ISO 400
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darktable 4.8.1
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View from the Peak.

Handheld panorama stitched from five frames.

Crowds on the Peak.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/1.7
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1/15 s
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ISO 800
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Crowds on the Peak.

On the way down we couldn’t afford the taxi so we took the bus. Like I literally ran out of money in my Octopus card and we had no cash lol.

Here's a taxi that we did not take due to lack of money.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/2.8
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ISO 1250
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Digital Camera GFX100S Ver2.12
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Here’s a taxi that we did not take due to lack of money.

7 Saturday 2024-09-14: Travelling to Zhuhai

Morning stroll.
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FUJIFILM GFX100S
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/8.0
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1/42 s
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ISO 200
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darktable 4.8.1
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Morning stroll.

For lunch we ate Hainanese chicken rice at a restaurant called “Cock N Rice”.

Chicken rice.
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GF20-35mmF4 R WR
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f/7.1
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1/27 s
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ISO 800
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darktable 4.8.1
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Chicken rice.

Then we took a bus to the bus terminal. Joanne figured out how to pay for stuff so crisis was averted.

View from the bus.
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f/5.6
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ISO 1000
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darktable 4.8.1
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View from the bus.

Then we took another bus to Zhuhai across the long bridge!

Bridge.
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GF55mmF1.7 R WR
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f/4.0
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darktable 4.8.1
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Bridge.

The next leg of the trip will be covered in a future blog post. Stay tuned!